A Rus Collar

Example of a Female's Ozherlya

In my reading to discover styles that fit in my husband's period and place, I came across the Ozherlya, a Russian collar, not attached to the clothing.  A highly embroidered and embellished piece, it was used for high fashion.  Extravagent ones were used as burial clothing or even passed from father to son.  It could be laid down or standing up, but however it's position it was always embellished.

Ozherlya

Again pulling from Sofia La Rus (My favorite place to go for Dmitri's garb) "For the wealthy, both men and women, the ozherel'e was embroidered with pearls and decorated with buttons. The ozherel'e sewn with pearls was very valuable. Among the property of a Moscow gentleman was listed an ozherel'e worth 700 rubles, another worth 400 rubles, and two listed as worth 300 rubles each. There were 14 collars in his property all together, both standing and laid-down collars, and the women's seemed to be more expensively decorate than the men's. A fur standing collar was also called an ozherel'e. Prince Obolenskij had one of beaver fur."

Vorotnik - Standing Collar
 Attached to the Garment

When I first started my husband's ozherel'e or ozherlya, I again couldn't find examples, other than words and a few hand drawn pieces.  I have since come across several, and while I love mine, I have come to realize it may not be 100% accurate.  I have seen several examples that seem to embellish an existing brocade.  And most of the pieces I have found seem to have either a good
deal of repetition, or are so filled with the embellishments a pattern isn't as determinable.

An example of the pearling and embellishments

Collars didn't only use embroidery though, they were often edged with pearls, precious stones and metals, and glass, all placed on the most extravagant and expensive fabric the person could afford.  Often pearls were edged with golden thread to set them off.

As I said, I didn't really know this when I began, and I couldn't find examples because, frankly, I didn't know what I was looking for, and Pinterest has only really blossomed in recent years with Russian Medieval Garb.  But I still feel the piece I am working on for my husband will be beautiful when finished (and until then its nice to let him wear it out and about.)  On Sofia's page she stated that often there was embroidery of animals, the heavens, arches, etc.  I have incorporated some of these at my husband's request.  Eventually I hope to add so much embellishment that these pieces are almost "edged" with pearls and stones, but, as I don't have 7 month winters in my home, I will settle for small pieces at a time.

An Eagle Displayed Stands front and center of the collar.

To its Left and Right  Bears

Jewels set in "Silver," and clusters of pearl. 

                 

To its Left and Right a Sun 

     

And Moon with More Pearls.

                                  

A Rus Pouch

Novgorod pouch shape

Embroidered Novgorod Leather

This is my first ever leather working projects.  My husband has dabbled in leather-working since he was young.  The first is a simple black leather pouch, the second came shortly after I found some online pictures of the Novgorod medieval exhibit.  And recently found the embroidered leather on a friends Pinterest post to back up "our theory" of how it worked.  While I haven't yet seen any embroidered leather pouches, my feelings are if it could have happened why not? - I know, I know historically awful.

Embroidered Leather

But these examples inspired me and my husband and I were in dire need of pouches.  So we put together our first (and farrrrr too big) pouch.  The size of the pouch itself was fine, but we put a 3 inch wide band to "thicken it."  We still had a daughter in diapers at that point and I wanted to be able to tuck an emergency pair of clothes and diaper/wipes in it.  But it ended up being over-kill and a bit on the floppy side when finished, though still functional, and probably coming out again this fall when our second beautiful baby is due to be born.

We did a two button clasp on the front of each we wrapped with leather, due to the snugness it actually functions really well.  The back - intended to be worn on a belt - is simply two loops with two copper-rivots to hold it together.  It's been beautifully sturdy and has lasted for three years with no maintenance what-so-ever.

We "sewed" the front to the back with the three inch strip in the first pouch, and a 1.5 inch strip on the second one.  The one and a half inch is plenty big enough, and really has been a lot more comfortable than the larger one.  We hole punched the sides and front and back together, and highly recommend doing the button embellishments and the rivoting on the belt loops first as it was a pain in the neck afterwards.  The same goes for the embroidery.

The designs for the embroidery I attempted to pull from the leather holes I saw in the Novgorod example.  I wish I would have chalked a space so the embroidery was on the front flap only and not on the bend that wrapped to the back.  It looks good still, but I would have liked it more if the two circles in the upper part of the pouch were lower.  The red jewels are rivots as well, which were purely decorative as Rus appeared to love embellishments of jewels, pearls, and embroidery.  

So there we go, our first attempts at leather working!
  

My Rus Husband; a Russian Coat

My husband, Dmitri, started playing in the SCA when he was 16 and thus has a very specific style and the base of a persona.

Scott's Shuby...or Opashen?

He is a Rus, and thus our attempts at building his wardrobe revolve around the Russian styling - though, this seamstress is still really new and therefore my pieces are not "professional" and come with much trial and error.  It doesn't help that I'm also a jack of all trades and a master of none, I'd rather try 30 things than really master any.

For example, his shuby (or shuba) sort of ended up merging with the opashen - though when I created it I didn't realize it was called either of these.  I only called it a coat.  I was following the Mordak Pack, but I think I did something wrong as when I made it for him the sides were HUGE, we ended up removing two panels completely to give it a slightly more fitted look, though it "skirts out" pretty well.

According to Sofia la Rus, the shuby "was open-down-the-front, with wide sleeves narrowing to the hand. There existed also folding/collapsing sleeves (to be pushed up on the forearms). The length of the shuba depended on the style - it could be just a little lower than the knee or long almost to the heel. The collar was fur, in various styles. It was generally a loose garment, but some versions were fitted."  The opashen on the other hand, was "formal/dressy special-occasion clothing of cloak-like type. The opashen' was sewn from smooth woolen cloth (sukno). It could have a satin (atlas) turn-down collar trimmed with river pearls on its edge. Lengthwise along the flap of the opashen’ are sewn sixteen pairs of horizontal loops and buttons. Buttons were cast of brass, pear-shaped. Sleeves were long (as long as the hem!) and narrow, with holes in the sleeves near the armholes through which the hands could pass."

Mordak

It was only after creating this piece did I start seeing examples online of other people's creations.  Frankly, I'm pleased with what we got, especially considering that my husband is a very hot man.  He simply radiates heat, and with his desire to wear the coat in the middle of summer to hot events, making it in thinner fabric than the examples I've found, which tend to be lined with heavy fabrics or furs, and created with heavy brocades.

Close up of Pearls and Buttons

In the spirit of Rus styling we added pearls to the front of the coat, and buttons.  We edged it with velvet as well, but it was a very soft velvet and had some mild difficulties staying stiff and closed, so I added a few little cheater clasps to make it functional.  I know this isn't the way a real seamstress would do it - but sometimes function is more important than realism...  Some day maybe I'll make garb that's both gorgeous and historically accurate, but for now I'll be happy with putting my hard work into it and attempting at historical accuracy, which is the true spirit of the SCA...at least to me.
   

DIY Mannequin

In my desire to make myself some glorious garb, and the fact that each time I'm begging my husband for assistance to see what it fits like to tell me how many inches it needs in the adjusted at the hem, what the measurements are on my bust, etc. etc. I went shopping for a mannequin, but in addition to the fact that none of them really were shaped like me, they were very expensive.

So I went to my trusty stand-by when I want to do something but have no idea how.  Pinterest! (haha) I found this on a Russian website, but delightfully simple photos helped me know exactly what I needed to do.

In case you don't have a google translator or have questions, here's my quick run down.  Take a t-shirt, one that's snug and long - mine was an old one I had in my drawer so I got it for free.  Put it on.  Have a friend tape you up snugly and smoothly (some wrinkles are workable.) I used about 3 rolls ($15) of tape on mine, but I am definitely larger than their model.  You'll note on the photos that they secure under the bust with a circle of tape, and they also drew a line around the waist where you bent.  I didn't understand why until I cut up the back, but do it, it helps a lot.   

When you are fully taped, snugly and securely, have your friend take a pair of scissors and slice it up the back.  You want to align these marks to ensure that its straight.  

When you pull it off it will keep your shape very well.  Start by putting cardboard in the sleeves and neck.  Then tape them into place.  When you have capped them and secured the back stuff it.  I filled mine with a hodge podge of a bunch of different things, cardboard, newsprint, stuffing, and chipped foam.  The best thing I found was the chipped foam, but I'm glad I did a variety of them as it would have taken a lot more to fill it with just the foam.  I ended up spending about $15 on the foam and stuffing, and cut apart two horrible old lumpy pillows that needed to be replaced anyways.   

To make the stand I spent $11 on wood, $8 on the 4x4, I cut it down to roughly my heighth.  Then $3 on a 2x4.  We cut this into roughly 16 inch pieces, and screwed them into place, taking some care to make them as level as possible.  (We already had the screws.) And you're set, for less than $50 you'll have a mannequin that fits you to a tee. 

  

She-she's Partlet

When She-she had fully "designed" her lavender dress (I drew options of square, round, or keyhole necklines, different options for sleeves, skirt flairs, etc and she picked) and we were at JoAnn's choosing the fabric, she went absolutely crazy about the little purple and white striped material and the purple ruffle.  So we decided to go ahead and get a bit and make her a coat, but as its summer and we only go to a few winter events, I decided first to do a Partlet.

If you aren't familiar with the Tudor period you likely don't know what a Partlet is - I didn't know what it was called until I tripped over it on Pinterest.  I didn't even know it was a separate peice from the dress (as you can see later in the photos.)  You'll likely look at the rest of her dress and say "uh...Not TUDOR" and I'll say "Nope, but it was my daughter's vision and she's 3 so deal with it!" (Haha) 

The partlet, according to Renaissance Tailor, could be worn over or under the clothes, and is similar to the modern day "dickie" in function, though I have read also that it was occasionally lined with fur or wool and used as a sort of jacket-vest for cold weather.  

You may note the painting by an Unknown "Master" to the right shows a fur lined "over" partlet, whether the blueish-silver material is a heavy brocade or embroidered, is unclear, however, based on the thickness along the sleeves I like to think this one was more of the "for cold weather" styling. 

The young lady in pink, Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, c. 1553, shows the partlet warn under, a sort of lacy material with a heavily collared ruff.  I particularly love the fact that the collar has jewels around it, like a necklace, but as it alludes to a sheer consistency I think its more for decoration then warmth or modesty.

The partlet worn by Mrs. Regina Baumgartner, born Honold painted in 1540, shows much more elaborate decoration, pearls with embroidered embellishments and three gold chains, one of which is like a modern day choker.  But confusingly this one looks like its both worn over and under her gown.  Note the way it lays over the shoulder material, but under the bodice.  I think perhaps this may be an example such as Renaissance Tailor was discussing in her article, when she said:

Somewhere between the Tudor and Elizabethan period, the partlet migrated from the outside of the garment to be worn under the garment but over the corset.

 In any case the partlet adds beautiful period decor and a sense of authenticity to our costuming.  

I fashioned She-she's after a simple photo I found online.  I did alter it from tying straps to a little bit of cheating elastic for the comfort and ease of use of my child.  I also lined mine with the same purple the rest of her dress is in.  Renaissance Tailor also has a step by step portion in her article. 

The fun thing about this one was how incredibly simple it was to make and how easy it would be to go all out on it.  Start to finish, She-she's took me less than a half hour, and she loves it!  I'm thinking I may make a more elaborate one to go with my red velvet Tudor when its closer to completion.

Tudor Styling Research

I have a velvet dress that is very pretty but not particularly "period" I have made a few adjustments for it, but now I'm looking at "Tudoring it out."  I am not really looking to make it Authentic, but I want it to "appear" authentic to the layman...basically me!

So while finishing the hand sewing portion of my daughter's partlet I have started research.

Some very informative articles I have found so far are: 

http://hathawaysofhaworth.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/tudor-clothing-layers/

http://seamstressinsane.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2009-01-01T00:00:00-07:00&updated-max=2010-01-01T00:00:00-07:00&max-results=13

I love the details of her hat tutorial!

I have found that my dress - which I have altered to lace in the front - needs a "stomacher" to make it look more... Tudor-esque.  The example to the right is a very beaded beautiful version.  From my reading they were pinned or sewn into place.  So that will be my first "adjustment."

I think eventually I will open the skirt as well, showing the black dress I wear under it, possibly adding more for the wow factor that hits so well with Tudor styling.  

I will be showing you more photos of the piece I'm working on as I get it together. :D

Dress to Impress

There is a reason that dress up clothes is one of the first things toddlers play with - the inspiration of Daddy's work shirt, the glamour of Mommy's heels and purse - the style helps add a level of ambience and realism of pretend.  

It is why "an attempt at medieval attire" is often one of the first things told for people to acquire before playing or visiting.  The good news is that an attempt is all it needs to be.  If you are making things for a SCA event, try to stay away from the "glaringly modern fabrics" and the "obviously pretend" (dragons and fairies).  But if you're goal is LARPing, Ren Fest, or a convention the sky is the limit!

Baby She

Usually the first costume a person playing in the SCA makes is called a t-tunic or commonly a "hack and slash."  Think of it as an overly-large t-shirt.  Take it to the floor, ankle or below the knee for a lady, and as long as you want for a man.  You can make things short sleeve, long sleeve or anywhere in between.  

The excitement of playing with the T-tunic is that it really is quite customizable and much less intimidating then most modern day patterns.  The more you make, the more ideas you have to play with it, and of course the more skilled you will become.  All of the clothing on this page comes from alterations to this simple pattern. (Provided in the link below or at the SCA website) 

Another awesome thing is that it's really easy to adjust the pattern to fit babies, adults, and everyone in between.  Choosing a simple cotton blend makes it light and airy and perfect for summer camping events.  Thicker fabrics work well for layering and winter events.  Put it in linens, wools, and velvet surrounded by trim and pearls and suddenly you're dressing for court. 

The first thing I do when I decide to make a new piece for one of my family members is to sit down and quickly plan or sketch what they want.  

Daddy and Shy-Girl

Some questions you will want to answer before you cut your fabric (or in some cases buy it) are: 

~What is this piece for, camping, court, fighting, etc.?

~What is the typical weather going to be like, warm or cold?

~What type of durability will I need? (This may seem like an odd question, but when you are building for a child or toddler you will want to reinforce their clothes or you'll always be patching, if you're going for a fighter tunic you'll want a fabric that can take more of a beating.) 

Then you get to decide on the design, when I ask my family what they want I ask color, length, neck, sleeves, those are my basics, but if I know they want something extra (like my brother in the black and red) then we'll sketch it out and work it through.

    

Square necklines and keyhole necklines I have found to be the easiest, my circular necklines still always seem a bit off (haha.)  

For some quick details about the pieces pictured in this piece:

Baby She:
I made this HUGE for my daughter, She-she, in this photo she was about five months old, the good news with babies is they can't walk!  I sewed it large enough that her little feet would kick inside the skirt.  It did a fantastic job of hiding the diaper and gave her plenty of time to grow in it. She was almost a year old when I needed to make her second one.  Its a simple cotton so if she had a blow out (and believe me she did!) it was easy to wash and was comfortable for her to wear.  The good news too is that babies are essentially neutral in garb for a while, so this tunic will work just as well for my sons should I have one.

Shy-Girl:
I used a simple white linen I picked up at a thrift store for the undertunic (a short sleeved square necked one) and the green was remnants from one of my tunics that I picked up at Walmart for less than $15.  I simply cut the arm and side out and added trim.  Its got a keyhole neckline.  (I'll do a coat topic later for Dmitri's coat.)

Ballerina:

My Brother's first tunic.

This one was simple, and exactly what my She-she wanted.  A purple bell sleeved tunic with keyhole neckline.  The pearls are actually holding the sleeve folded up so that as she grows I can simply unpick it and have it grow with her.  Its belted with a simple purple and white rope.

My Little Bro:
His tunic was a little more complex but that was because they didn't have enough red fabric so we bought a light white for underneath it and "trimmed" it with red so that it looks like the tunic underneath is fully red.  I have heard of people doing this for more expensive fabrics, essentially hiding cheap stuff and edging it for elegance.  We also chose to "slash" his sleeves and the front and back of his tunic to flash some more red.    

The link below is where I got my initial pattern, and is one I highly recommending at least giving it a once over.  It's so versatile and delightfully simple.

Have you ever made a t-tunic?  What tips do you have?  What are some of your favorite alterations?

*Here's a link for a great pattern and how to guide.* http://www.sca.org/officers/chatelain/pdf/ForwardIntothePast.pdf